Surfersjournal Book Barbarian Days A Surfing Life

Something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous hobby, a way of life.
Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing from a young age. He chased waves all around the world, wandering for years across the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, and Africa. A studious boy, then an excessively adventurous young man, he became a distinguished writer and war correspondent. Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life takes us into the heart of unknown worlds, some just under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the intense camaraderie of strong friendships forged in challenging waves.
Winner of the Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography in 2016